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ajroadtrips
Joined: 08 Jul 2005
Posts: 134
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| Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:43 pm Post subject: TR: Desert Season |
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The Lady Mountain discussion made me want to chime in. Desert climbing season is starting to get quite good, I've been out a few times already this fall trying to hit some of the long time towers on my list.
Chimney Rock in the swell is a great moderate. Allen says 5.3, I'd say 5.6 or maybe V0---- or not even a yellow dot if you boulder at The Front. :roflol: The crux for me was driving back under the highway. A cow decided to try and re-enact the battle of Thermopylae and hold the pass. Fortunately, unlike the Spartans, after some tense negotiations he backed down.
Others I finally got to this fall were Ancient Art in Fisher towers. Magnificent! An AMAZING climbing experience, and quite moderate. As well as Monticello Butte by Gemini Bridges. All fun and great summits.
It's a good time to get out.
I'll attach a few pics. A few more are on my write-ups on www.outdoorzen.org
Ryan |
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jumar
Joined: 02 Dec 2005
Posts: 1426
Location: Lehi, UT
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| Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 7:59 am Post subject: |
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| Looks great! :2thumbs: |
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Cirrus2000
Joined: 26 Mar 2006
Posts: 1022
Location: Vancouver, BC
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| Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:05 am Post subject: |
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Looks great, indeed!
My first sandstone trad climbing was last week in Red Rocks. I'm so used to the granite up here in Squamish, I was terrified that the pro would just crumble the rock and zipper out. Eventually I started to get over it - the rock is harder than it seemed at first. I'll have to do some more of this desert climbing soon...
Nice pics! |
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ajroadtrips
Joined: 08 Jul 2005
Posts: 134
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| Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 4:47 pm Post subject: |
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Cirrus2000 wrote: Looks great, indeed!
My first sandstone trad climbing was last week in Red Rocks. I'm so used to the granite up here in Squamish, I was terrified that the pro would just crumble the rock and zipper out. Eventually I started to get over it - the rock is harder than it seemed at first. I'll have to do some more of this desert climbing soon...
Nice pics!
I haven't climbed much at Red Rocks, but what I have done there I would say was pretty good rock compared to a lot of the desert towers. Man Red Rocks is fun. Did you climb at all in the Black Corridor? Sport routes. Super fun and interesting climbing. If only it weren't such a drive from SLC....
Climbing in Fisher Towers has given me new appreciation for most sandstone quality. My hat is off to the old boys that put up those routes (and many of the new lines going up seem equally intimidating). Yikes! Imagining standing on the final pitch of Ancient Art hand drilling bolts gives me a shudder. |
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Brian in SLC
Joined: 01 Aug 2006
Posts: 431
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| Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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deserthiker wrote: I haven't climbed much at Red Rocks, but what I have done there I would say was pretty good rock compared to a lot of the desert towers. Man Red Rocks is fun. Did you climb at all in the Black Corridor? Sport routes. Super fun and interesting climbing. If only it weren't such a drive from SLC....
Can't recall who said it, but, I agree...
"Sport climbing at Red Rocks is like masturbating on your honeymoon."
Lets go climb some dirt! Or at least some solid sandstone...
New Red Rocks guidebook is out...
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC |
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Cirrus2000
Joined: 26 Mar 2006
Posts: 1022
Location: Vancouver, BC
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| Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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Brian in SLC wrote: deserthiker wrote: I haven't climbed much at Red Rocks, but what I have done there I would say was pretty good rock compared to a lot of the desert towers. Man Red Rocks is fun. Did you climb at all in the Black Corridor? Sport routes. Super fun and interesting climbing. If only it weren't such a drive from SLC....
Can't recall who said it, but, I agree...
"Sport climbing at Red Rocks is like masturbating on your honeymoon."
Lets go climb some dirt! Or at least some solid sandstone...
New Red Rocks guidebook is out...
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
:roflol:
We only had 2 days, and my climbing partner was suffering from whiplash from an accident 4 days before... Not the best climbing situation. Be that as it may, we did Cat in the Hat the first day, and since my poor partner was hurting, we just did Solar Slab Gully (easy 5.3 stuff) the second day. I got to lead most of the pitches, as Jesse was feeling a little weak and out of sorts.
Cat in the Hat was truly awesome. 5.6 trad fun. One of the most entertaining climbs I've ever done...
I've heard some nasty stories about the rock at Fisher Towers. I'm far too chicken for that stuff! |
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