Bogley

[tanya]

It has a casual feel to it. :nod:

[tanya]

Not too many of you seem to be into the river thing, but here is the article Bo and I just wrote for the Today in Dixie Magazine.

The Trip of a Lifetime
By Bo Beck and Tanya Milligan

The Grand Canyon is as “grand” as its name implies. One of the seven natural wonders of the world, Grand Canyon for most tourists may be nothing more than a quick scenic drive through the park, a short hike to one of many viewpoints, a stop at the visitor center, or dinner in the lodge, then hitting a shop or two for souvenirs.

To really experience Grand Canyon, you may have to trade your long silky hair for a muddy mess of dreadlocks; sleep on the ground for weeks or bathe in forty-five degree water cold enough for “brain freeze.”

Sound like fun? If you said no, you may miss the very best way to see the Grand Canyon! Floating the enormous gorge, with the exhilaration of roaring world-class rapids, is the trip of a lifetime! Between the violent chaos of a wild ride through the rapids and the calm of still water, there is time to soak in the intense beauty and the remarkable geology of the canyon with its magnificent towering walls.



Our guides on this unforgettable adventure were trip-leader Monte and an incredible group of “river rats.” We set out in early spring when the weather is usually unpredictable. Fortunately the days were warm, preventing hypothermia as massive waves broke over the top of us, dousing us in frigid water. Each day we would pull into a sandy beach before nightfall and set up camp as daylight was dwindling. As soon as the boats were docked, an organized process created an elaborate kitchen, dishwashing table, and fire pan along with a concealed latrine with an incredible view of the river. Everything had its place. Fishing lines were cast in the hope of fresh fish for dinner and each of us had the opportunity to be chef during the trip.

After the sun had set, chilly air drew us into a tight circle around the fire where gifted storytellers and seasoned river runners O.C. and Jack shared a lifetime of adventures on the river. These delightful Grand Canyon veterans with white beards were soft-spoken and jovial characters. Images from their yarns seemed to dance in the firelight as they spun their tales!

Around the campfire camaraderie grew as Jimmy and the two Tommy’s sang and kept the laughter flowing. As eyelids grew heavy we made our way to our accommodations where – in the moments before the rhythm of the river lulled us to sleep - we laid quietly staring up into the dark sky, sprinkled liberally with brilliant stars. In the morning of each new day, we awoke to Tommy’s laughter and the warmth of a roaring fire. After breakfast we packed our gear onto seven watercrafts.

We often camped where we could see other groups run the rapids. We had our own close calls, but it was harrowing to watch a man thrown from the back of another boat, hit the oarsman on the top of the head, then bob and struggle in the frigid and turbulent waves of emerald green water before being fished out.

Until we got to the stretch of river known as Deubendorff, the rapids had not really intimidated me. In fact, the rowers were hitting the rapids so smooth it was like a gentle roller coaster ride. I would get wet of course, but on the big raft, I felt quite safe in the hands of our experienced rowers. Perhaps I was lax and not holding on tight enough. Maybe it would not have mattered how tight I held on, because in the end a giant wave got the best of me. I never knew what hit me until my body was draped over the boat and my face was almost in the water. Luckily before I plunged into the depths of the Colorado River, my boat mate Bill, pulled me back onto the floor of the raft. Then another massive wave heaved water on top of me, leaving me gasping for air. I struggled to get back on my seat, eyes wide with fear when I saw massive boulders jutting out of the water everywhere as we dropped into a capacious swirl of whitewater! We hit every “hole” in Deubendorff!

Having watched Tanya, try swimming the notorious Deubendorff rapid, I should have had more sense than to try my hand at paddling an inflatable kayak through rough water. I thought the maneuverability of my borrowed “duckie” would be my trump card to keep me out of harms way. After all, that was the case through the Havasu rapid and a few small riffles. The noise was deafening as I watched the 18’ raft ahead drop off into plumes of spray and boiling waters, indicating that the next stretch of water might mean serious business for my tiny inflatable. The other boaters had just made it past the “standing wave” when I saw them pointing and hollering “go right!” I realized I wasn’t going to make it just before a lateral wave pounded me from the side. This pummeling left me clinging to my paddle and gasping for air as I rode the rest of the savage and unforgiving water underneath my overturned kayak. I was only in the freezing water a short time before being able to clamber back into the safety of my kayak, but the cold was shocking! Once on shore even the intense rays of the sun and dry clothes could not dim the chill permeating my body.



As exciting as it was to run the river, there was also fantastic hiking to be done through many side canyons and towering temples, such as Dox Castle down to Shinumo Creek or up Galloway Canyon and down Stone Creek. Hiking to the desert waterfalls of Thunder River, Deer Creek, Elves Chasm, Havasu and many others are an outdoorsman’s dream.



As we neared 180 miles on the river, a menacing rumble grew louder, demanding everyone’s attention. The time had come to face Lava Falls, the most violent and savage stretch of water on the river.

The infamous rapid is nestled below Toroweap Overlook on the North Rim where boulders form enormous waves and “holes” capable of gobbling up even the largest watercraft on the river. O.C’s wooden dory plummeted into the swirling water and broke unscathed through the tempestuous torrent. One by one, each oarsman pulled into the current, adrenaline rushing through their veins, the beauty of Toroweap ignored as minds focused on the task immediately ahead. They crashed through the splashing bedlam of violence engulfing the boats. That night around the campfire, there would be chilling stories of past encounters with one of the canyon’s biggest rapids.



It’s hard to keep track of days on the river, but just two short days after Lava Falls it was time to bid farewell to new friends and wonderful hosts Jack and Monte before they continue on to Lake Mead. We watched as the fleet slowly drifted south then pushed our way up the rim of the canyon to our awaiting vehicle. It was a bittersweet day, but the memories will live on forever.

http://www.zionnational-park.com/grand-canyon-river-trip[/img]

[Alex]

Tanya, I loved your story, can't wait to eventually join in on a GC trip.

[tanya]

Kazak wrote: Tanya, I loved your story, can't wait to eventually join in on a GC trip.


Thanks Alex! You have never been on a boat through the Grand Canyon yet? I feel really lucky to have ever gone!

[Alex]

Nope, been on a river only a couple of years, so I am still learning the ropes :nod: My time will come, I am sure of that. Glad to live it through your picture and your story. Thanks! :2thumbs:

[soitgos]

Nice article Tanya. You are right that not too many people on this forum seem to be river rats. Too bad. It's the most fun you can have with your clothes on.

I'm off to Desolation Canyon for five days.

[quote="tanya"]Not too many of you seem to be into the river thing, but here is the article Bo and I just wrote for the Today in Dixie Magazine.
The Trip of a Lifetime

[tanya]

It can only be because they have not done it! I never appreciated the Grand Canyon before this trip! I would have to actually put the Grand Canyon before ... my beloved ZION now!!!!!


:five:

I hope you have a wonderful trip!

[tanya]

Kazak wrote: Nope, been on a river only a couple of years, so I am still learning the ropes :nod: My time will come, I am sure of that. Glad to live it through your picture and your story. Thanks! :2thumbs:

I love boats and think any river trip would be a blast, but the Grand Canyon I am guessing is one of the most special of them all!

What are some other favorite river trips?

[soitgos]

There are lots of great rivers. Yes, the GC is at the top of the list, but the Selway, the Middle Fork of the Salmon, and the Salt are right up there. Westwater Canyon has been called the best day trip in America. I think that may be true.

Steve

[tanya]

soitgos wrote: There are lots of great rivers. Yes, the GC is at the top of the list, but the Selway, the Middle Fork of the Salmon, and the Salt are right up there. Westwater Canyon has been called the best day trip in America. I think that may be true.

Steve

Alex has mentioned Westwater Canyon trips. Where are all these rivers ... or at least the part of the river you usually run?

[soitgos]

The Selway and Salmon are in Idaho. Idaho truly is the whitewater capital of the world. The Salt is in AZ. Westwater is a 17-mile section of the Colorado River, in Utah near the Colorado border.

Those are extremely famous rivers. There are others. The Bruneau and Owyhee in Idaho, the Rogue in Oregon, the Dolores and Animas in Colorado. Cataract Canyon is pretty awesome.

Ahhh . . . wonderful memories.

[tanya]

soitgos wrote: The Selway and Salmon are in Idaho. Idaho truly is the whitewater capital of the world. The Salt is in AZ. Westwater is a 17-mile section of the Colorado River, in Utah near the Colorado border.

Those are extremely famous rivers. There are others. The Bruneau and Owyhee in Idaho, the Rogue in Oregon, the Dolores and Animas in Colorado. Cataract Canyon is pretty awesome.

Ahhh . . . wonderful memories.

I don't think it gets better than being on a boat with no motor in a beautiful setting and fun friends along!

Do you have some non-Grand Canyon stories?

[o.c.utah]

Tanya - Looks like we passed eachother on the river! I remember stopping at the Ross Wheeler and seeing you all camped there. Meeting OC and seeing his boat was cool. (I was in the process of building a similar boat myself at the time, which I have since finished and christened on Deso)

You posted some pics of our group - Andy and Dave in the "Hellgrammite" Dory and Bug rowing her Blue Achilles bucket boat

It looks like you may have used one of the pics in the article you published? We'd love to see a copy if one is available.

Thanks for a great trip report and for sharing your great pics.
My photostream from the trip is online at Flickr:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/desierto/sets/72157594406125202/

Cheers,
Jeremy Christensen

[Sombeech]

o.c.utah wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/desierto/sets/72157594406125202/


Excellent photos! Welcome to the forum. :2thumbs:

[tanya]

o.c.utah wrote: Tanya - Looks like we passed eachother on the river! I remember stopping at the Ross Wheeler and seeing you all camped there. Meeting OC and seeing his boat was cool. (I was in the process of building a similar boat myself at the time, which I have since finished and christened on Deso)

You posted some pics of our group - Andy and Dave in the "Hellgrammite" Dory and Bug rowing her Blue Achilles bucket boat

It looks like you may have used one of the pics in the article you published? We'd love to see a copy if one is available.

Thanks for a great trip report and for sharing your great pics.
My photostream from the trip is online at Flickr:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/desierto/sets/72157594406125202/

Cheers,
Jeremy Christensen

Wonderful photos and thanks for the compliment!

O.C. is awesome! We must have passed..... are you related to Steve Christensen?

Which of the photos is of your group?

http://www.zionnational-park.com/images/album2/index37.htm
http://www.zionnational-park.com/images/album2/index39.htm

I would glady put captions of who the photo are if you show me the photos and give the text to me! :five:

The story
http://www.zionnational-park.com/grand-canyon-river-trip

The story was published in the Today in Dixie Magazine too!

Are any of the photos of your group in this thread?