Bogley

[Brian in SLC]

climbinghalfdome wrote: HOWEVER the guy who bolted the first pitch must have been over 7 feet tall. With me being 5 foot 4 it was all I could do to get up the thing in under 3 hours.

Pretty funny. I think Ron is about your height...

You should check out the "Clean Walls" video. The FA guy leads the first pitch, doesn't use daisy chains, and hikes it in a few minutes. If you haven't read it, his article in the AAJ about the FA of the route is a good read. Available on the AAC website.

He "T stacks" in his aiders. And steps high. I use Russian aiders, which give me a ton of reach.

You think that bolt ladder was spaced out, try one drilled by Layton Kor...

A nice practise route is the Pulpet at the TOS. Goes pretty fast, and, the bolt ladder is a museum of strange stuff. Nice to have the system dialed to make the longer Zion classics go a bit more efficiently.

Good stuff.

-Brian in SLC

[climbinghalfdome]

My regular partner just bailed out on me.
The plan was (is) to lead then fix the first 3 pitches of Touchstone wall this Wednesday, then Thursday morning Jumar up the fixed lines, and finish the route. I can lead all the pitches, I just need a belayer.
I guess I could solo the first 3 aid pitches on Wednesday, but the free stuff on Thursday would go a lot faster if someone could join me.
I've soloed routes before, but I'd rather have someone to talk to and someone to clean the pitches I lead. Swapping leads is cool with me too.
email me off this list.
Kevin

kevin_likes_to_climb_much@hotmail.com

[climbinghalfdome]

trackrunner wrote: CarpeyBiggs wrote: My favorite abandoned rope in Zion had to be the one last spring that was hanging out of lower echo over weeping rock. (Which is closed, for obvious reasons.) The crew must've just rapped and ran, I was thinking. It was up for two days when I got there, but was gone on the third day. I'm betting the park service didn't really like it hanging down in one of the most populated areas.

Must be tough leaving a rope though, those things ain't cheap.
Several times I have seen ropes stuck on weaping rock.
Yea why would somone leave 900 ft of rope tied together on a cliff. :ne_nau:
I would want my rope back

I spent the day on Touchstone III Wall last Saturday and decided to go get that stuck rope that was wind blown off to the Left of the route. I rapped from P4's anchors and pengied over to the rope. I'm thinking of weaving it into a floor mat and selling it on EBAY. Think I'd get $0.50 for it? It's all white, crunchy, and stiff. YUM.
Kevin.

[denaliguide]

normally you just clip the one nut of the two that you've stacked. that being said you still want to clip the second nut with a little slack so if the placement blows you dont lose it.

don't know if you've seen it but theres a book written by john long (i think) on aid clinbing. great book and worth having in your library.

http://www.amazon.com/How-Climb-Big-Walls/dp/0934641633/ref=pd_sim_b_img_16r

if you like long reaches try the south face of washingtons column in yosemite. having to high step is an understatement. it's one of layton kors.

[climbinghalfdome]

Last weekend I Soloed Touchstone Wall again and I employed the continuous loop method. I LOVE IT! I only had to haul 3 times while on the wall. (Hauling takes the most time so the less I do it the better). Someone put bolt #6 back on P1 and this time added epoxey to the D.A. too! Sure was nice. They also added a pin to the traverse to get to the roof! Its so welcome to see the poxy on it too. However the broken pin above the lip of the roof is still there. Guess it adds flavor. I had enough gear to run Pitches 2,3,4 all together then haul at the top. It took so long to rap and clean I lost feeling in my legs.
Several times the Silent Partner turned into its own Cluster F. It would have been tonz better if I could have tied the Clove hitch upside down. So the tails of the lines exit the bottom of the device rather than the top. This would be significantly easier to feed the rope through on lead. What say ya'll. I noticed that the silent partner would short rope me a lot. Especially when I'm steping up into the top steps on small gear, or when I had to bust a free move once and a while.
Kevin