Brian in SLC
Joined: 01 Aug 2006
Posts: 459
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| Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 10:56 am Post subject: Re: True or False Moonlight Butress... |
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climbinghalfdome wrote: OK so I'm looking into soloing Moonlight soon and I'm getting conflicting beta from some web sites. I'll AID as much as I can.True or False
Moonlight doesn't take any gear bigger than a #1 BD camalot?
Where did you hear that?
You can place up to a #6 camalot on Moonlight. Heck, if you had a #20 camalot, you could protect the chimney on p5.
We took singles above a #1 through 4 Camalot. I think the first pitch will suck up a 2, 3 and 4. Third pitch to the rocker block too (unless you don't want pro on that wide crack). You could place larger cams on p2 too but the climbing is easy to the roof/thin crack so most folks don't.
Above the rocker block, on the pitch past the thin corner, before you get to the chimney pitch, there's a spot or two for a larger cam. And I seem to recall on the fourth pitch as well, there's a pod or two that takes larger cams.
And, in several places in the final 3 or so pitches, there's pods to place bigger cams which helps conerve the smaller cams for the splitter cracks.
My partner built an anchor just before the last 5.7 pitch and used bigger cams.
-Brian in SLC |
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