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Iceaxe



Joined: 07 Mar 2005
Posts: 7626
Location: Local Bordello

Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 2:35 pm    Post subject: Canyoneering Glossary  

Canyoneering Glossary

Abseil - The process of descending on a fixed rope. Americans call it rappelling. "Rappelling" is rigging a rope for descent so that it can be pulled down or "rappelled" (French for "to recall") after the descent. Abseiling is just sliding down a rope. So if the rope is fixed at the top (as in caving) it is not "rappelling".

Aid Climbing - The use of anything other than the natural rock features.

Alpine Style - refers to canyoneering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all ones food, gear, ropes, equipment etc. as one
descends the canyon. As opposed to siege style or (expedition style).

Anchor - Point where the rope is secured to the rock with bolts, rocks, slings, trees or other gear.

Arete - A narrow ridge.

Ascenders - Devices used to ascend a rope.

Batman - To climb the rope hand over hand with a supporting surface for the feet.

Beer - Liquid consumed in large quantities after canyoneering.

Belay - To secure a climber with a rope.

Beta - Insider information or advice about a route given by one (or quite often 6) self-proclaimed experts. From Betamax, and an article in Rock and Ice Magazine by Neil Cannon, circa 1987.

Biner - Short for carabiner

Bivouac, Bivi - A very uncomfortable sleeping place in the middle of a route. French for "We really screwed up".

Blood - A substance commonly used to mark a canyoneering route.

Bolt - An expansion bolt used by gumbies to simplify or dumb down a route.

Bolt It - Last words heard before a major fight between canyoneers breaks out in the bar.

Bomber - Used to indicate that something is exceptionally solid.

Bombay - A wide silo or bell shaped void directly under a very narrow section in a canyon. The narrow section above is safely stemmable down to where the bombay opens up. At that point, the canyon is no longer stemmable. Further descent must be acheived through rappelling (or falling).

Bombproof - The illusion that an anchor is infallible

Booty - Gear (biners, nuts, rope, cams, etc.) that was left behind by the previous party.

Boulder - Climbing unroped on boulders or at the base of climbs to a height where it is still safe to jump off.

Bunny Strap - A length of webbing or a daisy chain with a carabiner attached which will allow you to hang your pack from your harness while you chimney, climb and stem.

Buttress - The part of the mountain or rock that stands in front of the main mountain face.

Cam - A spring loaded camming device is a piece of rock climbing or mountaineering protection equipment. It consists of three or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, so that pulling on the axle forces the cams to spread further apart. By pulling on the "trigger" (a small handle) so the cams move together, then inserting it into a crack or pocket in the rock and releasing the trigger to allow the cams to expand. At this point a climbing rope can be attached to a sling and carabiner at the end of the stem.

Canyonette - Female canyoneer.

Carabiner - A metal snap-link used for purposes such as attaching climbers to anchors. This most essential climbing device is also known as a "biner".

Cheater Stick - (Happy Hooker) A long pole with a hook attached to one end.

Chimney - A wide crack that accommodates the body of the climber.

Chockstone - A stone wedged into a crack or chimney. Can be very small to gigantic.

Chossy - Loose or bad quality rock.

Chute - A very steep gully.

Couloir - A steep gully which may have snow or ice.

Crux - The hardest part of the route.

Daisy chain - A sling sewn with numerous loops.

Deadman - A natural anchor consisting of a large stone wrapped with webbing and buried just above a rappel. Or what you may become if your natural anchor fails.

Downclimbing - What skilled canyoneers do instead of rappelling.

Epic - The story of a well planned trip that turned into a grueling adventure that turned out well in the end. As these stories are told over and over again - and they always are - the details get stretched to supernatural proportions for dramatic effect.

Etrier - Webbing ladder used for aid climbing. Aka 'aider'.

Exposure - Being in a situation in which you are very aware that you are high off the ground or in a remote location.

Figure 8 - Metal rappelling/belaying device shaped like an 8.

Fanboi - (Fanboy or Fangirl) Someone who is hopelessly devoted to something and will like anything associated with it. Term related to forum users who think a product/company/person can do no wrong.

Fixed pro - Bolts, rings, pitons and other piece of unremovable protection that may be found in a canyon. Use at your own risk.

Gully - A wide, shallow ravine on a mountainside.

Gumbie, Gumby - An inexperienced or new canyoneer. Unlike posers, gumbies don't know enough to get hurt.

Happy Hooker - A long pole with a hook attached to one end. Aka Cheater Stick.

Hardman - A canyoneer with seemingly superhero strength who has survived epics of grandiose proportions.

Harness - Piece of clothing that identifies you as a climber. Hanging things from the harness that make a loud clanking sound can significantly enhance the coolness factor.

Historian - Somebody who likes to think they know what they are talking about when discussing "the old days".

Hook - A devise used in aid climbing.

Human Anchor - Where a rappel is necessary, and in the absence of rock bolts or other reliable anchors, a rope may be secured to a fellow canyoneer (usually the heaviest, or most skilled in the group) in order to provide a way for the rest of the group to rappel to the base of the drop.

Jug - To climb the rope with some type of ascenders.

Jumar - A type of rope ascending device.

Keeper Pothole - A pothole that is too deep to scramble out of without the assistance of specialty pothole escape techniques (ie, partner assist, potshot, packtoss, or happy hooker).

LDC - Looking Down Canyon.

Ledge - Flat bit on a rock that can be miniature or gigantic.

Left - Can mean "right", depends where you are looking.

Li-loing - To float on an air mattress or small raft down-canyon.

Locking biner - Carabiner that can be locked.

LUC - Looking Up Canyon

Mantle - Difficult balancing move useful to get up on ledges.

Mae West - a slot canyon so narrow that it is impossible to pass through. Usually requires climbing over with major exposure.

Natural Anchor - Trees, rocks, or gear that is placed in cracks, pockets or around objects so that it can be removed with no harm to the rock.

Noobie, Noob - A new canyoneer.

Packtoss - Throwing a full backpack with a rope attached to the escape side of a keeper pothole in order to assist escape.

Picket - A natural anchor consisting of several sticks jammed into the ground in sequence, each tied together.

Pitch - A section of climb between two belays and no longer than the length of one rope.

Piton - Metal spike hammered into a crack.

Poser - A novice canyoneer who thinks he knows it all.

Potshot - A small but durable bag that is filled with sand or rocks which is then tossed on the escape side of a keeper pothole, in order to assist escape.

Protection, Pro - Anchors placed in the canyon to protect the canyoneer. Beware: even properly placed pro does not prevent pregnancy or the transmission of STDs.

Prusik - A sliding knot method used to ascend a rope.

Pull Cord - A rope used to retrieve a fixed rappel line. Typically pull cords are more light-weight than rappel lines, and are used exclusively for the retrieval of fixed rappel ropes after descending.

R rating - Risky. A subjective rating system used to rate canyons that are made more hazardous than an average canyon by the presence of bombays, keeper potholes, dangerous and/or exposed downclimbing, long exposure to cold water, and/or the need for advanced ropework in order to safely descend. A major mishap may result in serious injury.

Ramp - An ascending or descending ledge.

Rappel, Rap - Descending by sliding down a rope. "Rappelling" is rigging a rope for descent so that it can be pulled down or "rappelled" (French for "to recall") after the descent. Known outside the US as abseiling, however abseiling is just sliding down a rope. If the rope is fixed at the top (as in caving) it is not "rappelling".

Rover - Is a grade of Scout in Australia, similar to Eagle Scout in the US.

Runner - A loop of tape or webbing either sewn or tied, Aka sling

Sally Style - Wearing your wetsuit on the approach or exit of a canyon, usually from or to the car.

Scrambling - Easy climbing, usually without a rope.

Scree - Loose rocks and stones that cover the slope below a cliff.

Search & Rescue, SAR - The people who put their life on the line when you screw up.

Siege Style - (Expedition Style) canyoneering involves setting up fixed ropes, fixing lines of retreat, providing rim support crews to extract or help if the route becomes difficult.

Sling - What Americans call a runner.

Slogging - the extremely tedious and monotous cross-country travel on foot to get to the canyon or get back to the car. ex. Moroni Slopes, Choprock bench

Smearing - Foot technique where a big part of the shoe is used to generate as much friction as possible

Softman - A former hardman who can accomplish canyons of epic proportion in comfortable style. Always has the warmest jacket, the biggest sleeping pad, the best food, and the finest of consumables. A title to aspire for.

Soloing - Canyoneering alone without a partner.

Stem - Bridging with the feet between two holds.

Swami - A climbing harness constructed from webbing.

Talus - Large blocks of rock. A coarse variation of scree.

Teva's - River rafting footwear or sandal.

Third class - Climbing without a rope on easy ground.

Traverse - Horizontal climbing.

Truck - a very solid anchor--ie able to hold a truck. Synonym to bomb-proof.

Webbing - Strong flat strip of nylon.

X rating - Extreme. A subjective rating system used to rate canyons that are made more hazardous than an average canyon by the presence of bombays, keeper potholes, dangerous and/or exposed downclimbing, long exposure to cold water, and/or the need for advanced ropework in order to safely descend. A major mishap will result in death.

YDS - Yosemite Decimal System. The North-American climbing rating system.

Zip Line - A method of transporting gear (usually heavy packs, or other objects that are to be kept dry) to the bottom of a rappel that terminates in deep water. The zip line consists of a taut rope, and begins at the top of the drop, and ends at the base of the rappel, just clear of the water obstacle.

Feel free to add words or ask the meaning of a word, term or phrase.

:five:
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stefan



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 3838
Location: somewhere

Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 10:02 pm    Post subject:  

you could add

guided rappel
sequence
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Iceaxe



Joined: 07 Mar 2005
Posts: 7626
Location: Local Bordello

Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:13 am    Post subject:  

Hey guys.... when you make a suggestion consider writing up a short description. It makes it much easier to add.

And you canyon Moderators please feel free to add to, update or correct the current list as you see fit. It will be a much better list with several folks contributing.

:popcorn:
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hank moon



Joined: 16 Mar 2007
Posts: 677

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:22 am    Post subject: Re: Canyoneering Glossary  

Iceaxe wrote: Canyoneering Glossary

Abseil - The process of descending on a fixed rope. Americans call it rappelling.

*** "rappelling" is rigging a rope for descent so that it can be pulled down or "rappelled" (French for "to recall") after the descent. Abseiling is just sliding down a rope. So if the rope is fixed at the top (as in caving) it is not "rappelling".

Aid Climbing - The use of anything other than the natural rock features.

*** What about jugging? Is that Aid climbing?


Alpine Style - refers to canyoneering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all ones food, gear, ropes, equipment etc. as one
descends the canyon. As opposed to siege style or (expedition style).

Anchor - Point where the rope is secured to the rock with bolts, rocks, slings, trees or other gear.

*** needs work


Arete - A narrow ridge.

*** needs work


Ascenders - Devices used to ascend a rope.

*** Mechanical devices...


Batman - To climb the rope hand over hand.

*** ...with a supporting surface for the feet


Beer - Liquid consumed in large quantities after canyoneering.

Belay - To secure a climber with a rope.

Beta - Insider information or advice about a route given by one (or quite often 6) self-proclaimed experts. From Betamax, and an article in Rock and Ice Magazine by Neil Cannon, circa 1987.

*** that of which Shane is king!


Biner - Short for carabiner

Bivouac, Bivi - A very uncomfortable sleeping place in the middle of a route. French for "We really screwed up".

*** funny, but needs work


Blood - A substance commonly used to mark a canyoneering route.

Bolt - An expansion bolt used by gumbies to simplify or dumb down a route.

*** funny, but needs work


Bolt It - Last words heard before a major fight between canyoneers breaks out in the bar.

Bomber - Used to indicate that something is exceptionally solid.

Bombay - A wide silo or bell shaped void directly under a very narrow section in a canyon. The narrow section above is safely stemmable down to where the bombay opens up. At that point, the canyon is no longer stemmable. Further descent must be acheived through rappelling (or falling).

Bombproof - The illusion that an anchor is infallible

*** funny, but needs work

Booty - Gear (biners, nuts, rope, cams, etc.) that was left behind by the previous party.

*** too specific, needs work

Boulder - Climbing unroped on boulders or at the base of climbs to a height where it is still safe to jump off.

*** needs work

Bunny Strap - A length of webbing or a daisy chain with a carabiner attached which will allow you to hang your pack from your harness while you chimney, climb and stem.

Buttress - The part of the mountain or rock that stands in front of the main mountain face.

*** needs work

Cam - A spring loaded camming device is a piece of rock climbing or mountaineering protection equipment. It consists of three or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, so that pulling on the axle forces the cams to spread further apart. By pulling on the "trigger" (a small handle) so the cams move together, then inserting it into a crack or pocket in the rock and releasing the trigger to allow the cams to expand. At this point a climbing rope can be attached to a sling and carabiner at the end of the stem.

*** needs work

Carabiner - A metal snap-link used for purposes such as attaching climbers to anchors. This most essential climbing device is also known as a "biner".

*** needs work

Cheater Stick - (Happy Hooker) A long pole with a hook attached to one end.

*** needs work

Chimney - A wide crack that accommodates the body of the climber.

*** funny, but needs work

Chockstone - A stone wedged into a crack or chimney. Can be very small to gigantic.

Chossy - Loose or bad quality rock.

Chute - A very steep gully.

*** needs work

Couloir - A steep gully which may have snow or ice.

*** needs work

Crux - The hardest part of the route.

Daisy chain - A sling sewn with numerous loops.

*** needs work

Deadman - A natural anchor consisting of a large stone wrapped with webbing and buried just above a rappel. Or what you may become if your natural anchor fails.

*** needs work

Downclimbing - What skilled canyoneers do instead of rappelling.

*** funny, but needs work

Epic - The story of a well planned trip that turned into a grueling adventure that turned out well in the end. As these stories are told over and over again - and they always are - the details get stretched to supernatural proportions for dramatic effect.

Etrier - Webbing ladder used for aid climbing. Aka 'aider'.

*** needs work

Exposure - Being in a situation in which you are very aware that you are high off the ground or in a remote location.

*** needs work

Figure 8 - Metal rappelling/belaying device shaped like an 8.

Fanboi - (Fanboy or Fangirl) Someone who is hopelessly devoted to something and will like anything associated with it. Term related to forum users who think a product/company/person can do no wrong.

*** Of which Shane has many!!! :lol8:

Fixed pro - Bolts, rings, pitons and other piece of unremovable protection that may be found in a canyon. Use at your own risk.

*** needs work

Gully - A wide, shallow ravine on a mountainside.

*** needs work

Gumbie, Gumby - An inexperienced or new canyoneer. Unlike posers, gumbies don't know enough to get hurt.

*** needs work

Happy Hooker - A long pole with a hook attached to one end. Aka Cheater Stick.

*** needs work

Hardman - A canyoneer with seemingly superhero strength who has survived epics of grandiose proportions.

Harness - Piece of clothing that identifies you as a climber. Hanging things from the harness that make a loud clanking sound can significantly enhance the coolness factor.

*** needs work

Historian - Somebody who likes to think they know what they are talking about when discussing "the old days".

*** needs work

Hook - A devise used in aid climbing.

*** needs work

Human Anchor - Where a rappel is necessary, and in the absence of rock bolts or other reliable anchors, a rope may be secured to a fellow canyoneer (usually the heaviest, or most skilled in the group) in order to provide a way for the rest of the group to rappel to the base of the drop.

*** needs work

Jug - To climb the rope with some type of ascenders.

*** needs work

Jumar - A type of rope ascending device.

*** needs work

Keeper Pothole - A pothole that is too deep to scramble out of without the assistance of specialty pothole escape techniques (ie, partner assist, potshot, packtoss, or happy hooker).

LDC - Looking Down Canyon.

Ledge - Flat bit on a rock that can be miniature or gigantic.

*** needs work

Left - Can mean "right", depends where you are looking.

*** needs work

Li-loing - To float on an air mattress or small raft down-canyon.

Locking biner - Carabiner that can be locked.

*** needs work

LUC - Looking Up Canyon

Mantle - Difficult balancing move useful to get up on ledges.

*** needs work

Mae West - a slot canyon so narrow that it is impossible to pass through. Usually requires climbing over with major exposure.

*** needs work

Natural Anchor - Trees, rocks, or gear that is placed in cracks, pockets or around objects so that it can be removed with no harm to the rock.

*** needs work

Noobie, Noob - A new canyoneer.

Packtoss - Throwing a full backpack with a rope attached to the escape side of a keeper pothole in order to assist escape.

*** needs work

Picket - A natural anchor consisting of several sticks jammed into the ground in sequence, each tied together.

*** needs work

Pitch - A section of climb between two belays and no longer than the length of one rope.

*** needs work

Piton - Metal spike hammered into a crack.

Poser - A novice canyoneer who thinks he knows it all.

*** needs work

Potshot - A small but durable bag that is filled with sand or rocks which is then tossed on the escape side of a keeper pothole, in order to assist escape.

*** needs work

Protection, Pro - Anchors placed in the canyon to protect the canyoneer. Beware: even properly placed pro does not prevent pregnancy or the transmission of STDs.

*** needs much work

Prusik - A sliding knot method used to ascend a rope.

*** needs work

Pull Cord - A rope used to retrieve a fixed rappel line. Typically pull cords are more light-weight than rappel lines, and are used exclusively for the retrieval of fixed rappel ropes after descending.

*** needs work

R rating - Risky. A subjective rating system used to rate canyons that are made more hazardous than an average canyon by the presence of bombays, keeper potholes, dangerous and/or exposed downclimbing, long exposure to cold water, and/or the need for advanced ropework in order to safely descend. A major mishap may result in serious injury.

Ramp - An ascending or descending ledge.

*** needs work

Rappel, Rap - Descending by sliding down a rope. Known outside the US as abseiling.

*** needs work

Rover - Is a grade of Scout in Australia, similar to Eagle Scout in the US.

Runner - A loop of tape or webbing either sewn or tied, Aka sling

Sally Style - Wearing your wetsuit on the approach or exit of a canyon, usually from or to the car.

Scrambling - Easy climbing, usually without a rope.

Scree - Loose rocks and stones that cover the slope below a cliff.

*** needs work

Search & Rescue, SAR - The people who put their life on the line when you screw up.

Siege Style - (Expedition Style) canyoneering involves setting up fixed ropes, fixing lines of retreat, providing rim support crews to extract or help if the route becomes difficult.

Sling - What Americans call a runner.

Slogging - the extremely tedious and monotous cross-country travel on foot to get to the canyon or get back to the car. ex. Moroni Slopes, Choprock bench

Smearing - Foot technique where a big part of the shoe is used to generate as much friction as possible

*** needs work

Softman - A former hardman who can accomplish canyons of epic proportion in comfortable style. Always has the warmest jacket, the biggest sleeping pad, the best food, and the finest of consumables. A title to aspire for.

Soloing - Canyoneering alone without a partner.

Stem - Bridging with the feet between two holds.

*** needs work

Swami - A climbing harness constructed from webbing.

*** needs work

Talus - Large blocks of rock. A coarse variation of scree.

*** needs work

Teva's - River rafting footwear or sandal.

Third class - Climbing without a rope on easy ground.

Traverse - Horizontal climbing.

Truck - a very solid anchor--ie able to hold a truck. Synonym to bomb-proof.

Webbing - Strong flat strip of nylon.

*** needs work

X rating - Extreme. A subjective rating system used to rate canyons that are made more hazardous than an average canyon by the presence of bombays, keeper potholes, dangerous and/or exposed downclimbing, long exposure to cold water, and/or the need for advanced ropework in order to safely descend. A major mishap will result in death.

YDS - Yosemite Decimal System. The North-American climbing rating system.

Zip Line - A method of transporting gear (usually heavy packs, or other objects that are to be kept dry) to the bottom of a rappel that terminates in deep water. The zip line consists of a taut rope, and begins at the top of the drop, and ends at the base of the rappel, just clear of the water obstacle.

Feel free to add words or ask the meaning of a word, term or phrase.

:five:
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Iceaxe



Joined: 07 Mar 2005
Posts: 7626
Location: Local Bordello

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:45 am    Post subject:  

***Needs Work - actually needs some work.

New rule.... you are not allowed to say that sucks without proposing a better term :lol8:

Feel free to rewrite the definitions. I'll edit all submissions and add them to the list. This list was originally composed as part of the Canyoneering Zion and Canyoneering Tales books where space was very limited, which is why most terms have a very short response.

:popcorn:
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hank moon



Joined: 16 Mar 2007
Posts: 677

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 10:07 am    Post subject:  

Iceaxe wrote: ***Needs Work - actually needs some work.

New rule.... you are not allowed to say that sucks without proposing a better term :lol8:

Feel free to rewrite the definitions. I'll edit all submissions and add them to the list. This list was originally composed as part of the Canyoneering Zion and Canyoneering Tales books where space was very limited, which is why most terms have a very short response.

:popcorn:

Yo, I said "needs work" not "that sucks" - most of it is quite good! - just some of the defs are either incomplete or too specific. I did propose some corrections here and there, but I ain't doing all the work! It could easily be distributed among the members of the canyoneering forum for efficiency. Good defs abound online...
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hank moon



Joined: 16 Mar 2007
Posts: 677

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 10:11 am    Post subject:  

Iceaxe wrote: This list was originally composed as part of the Canyoneering Zion and Canyoneering Tales books where space was very limited, which is why most terms have a very short response.

ahhh. makes sens.e
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Bo_Beck



Joined: 02 Dec 2005
Posts: 703
Location: Southern Utah

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:11 pm    Post subject: Glossary for Canyoneering  

Yanker: The guy (or gal) that lets everyone go down off the bolt anchor while the proclaimed "yanker" awaits. Once all parties are at the bottom of the rappel, he proceeds to "yank off, oops I mean yank out the bolt". Once at the bottom the yanker proclaims success and that the bolt has been "yanked"? Makes me wonder? Maybe I need to try it sometime? Sounds exciting!

"Deadman": The guy (or gal) that gets to sit upon a questionable buried object in the sand while everyone else giggles on the way down and mutters "I'm glad I'm not a dead man, but we'll catch him when he falls 25'!
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Scott Card



Joined: 07 Dec 2005
Posts: 1298
Location: Provo, Utah

Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 2:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Glossary for Canyoneering  

Bo_Beck wrote:

"Deadman": The guy (or gal) that gets to sit upon a questionable buried object in the sand while everyone else giggles on the way down and mutters "I'm glad I'm not a dead man, but we'll catch him when he falls 25'!

I thought "Deadman" was the term used when a newbie who is married underestimates the time it will take to do a canyon and the doesn't call on time, sometimes hours late. Dead man! :nod: (Been there, done that)
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Iceaxe



Joined: 07 Mar 2005
Posts: 7626
Location: Local Bordello

Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 2:27 pm    Post subject:  

:roflol:

I'm going with Scott's description....
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Bo_Beck



Joined: 02 Dec 2005
Posts: 703
Location: Southern Utah

Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 6:02 pm    Post subject: Posted in Climbing Thread but Works here too!  

Another example of a "Deadman Anchor".
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denaliguide



Joined: 12 Feb 2007
Posts: 522
Location: new zealand/alaska

Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:38 pm    Post subject:  

i've always thought of deadman anchors as a type of snow anchor. also called a fluke.

if it worked it was a fluke. if it didn't you were a deadman.
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