Bogley

csc0321 · Joined: 01 Feb 2008 Posts: 9 Location: SLC

Allrighty, I'm new to Utah and I really want to start mountaineering. I'm looking for any advice on the subject. I'm slowly acquiring the necessary gear and I’m about ready to purchase a pair of crampons. If anyone would be willing to show a dedicated newbie the ropes I would greatly appreciate it. Mountaineers please assist.

jumar · Joined: 02 Dec 2005 Posts: 1336 Location: Lehi, UT

Mountaineering can encompass a lot. Are you specifically wanting to get into alpine climbing, like Grand Teton, Rainier, Denali....?
Or do you want to get into rock climbing, ice climbing etc?
Generally the gear differs from alpine climbing and doing the weekend warrior stuff.

I read the Freedom of the Hills when I started getting into climbing and it helped a lot. I haven't seen a recent edition in a long time, but it should still have a lot of useful info.

The biggest thing is to go out with someone. I don't do much alpine climbing anymore, but you're welcome to come ice or rock climbing with me anytime. We just did a little Bogley outing up provo canyon. :2thumbs:

Jaxx · Joined: 16 Jan 2007 Posts: 1318

I don't do any mountaineering but I am reading through Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. The newest is 7th edition. It has a ton of info on everything from anchors, rock climbing, rappelling, glacier travel, etc. I highly recommend it.

Cirrus2000 · Joined: 26 Mar 2006 Posts: 978 Location: Vancouver, BC

I totally agree with these guys - Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. It's a must.

Consider looking around for a local mountaineering club, too. Here in Vancouver, we have the BC Mountaineering Club, and the Alpine Club of Canada. They organize trips from valley rambles to regular gym and outdoor cragging, ice climbs and full on mountaineering expeditions. Surely there's one of those nearby for you.

Some younger people here aren't too keen on those kinds of clubs, unfortunately, because the people are "too old" - a lot of people in their 40s, 50s and even 60s. But I'll tell you, there's a LOT of knowledge and experience there, and some of those 60 year olds could kick butt on a lot of 25 year olds.

csc0321 · Joined: 01 Feb 2008 Posts: 9 Location: SLC

Jeff-

Alpine climbing is what I'm really interested in. However, Ice climbing is something I can definitely see myself getting into. It would be great to come along with you some time. Ice axes are a bit pricey though, that’s my biggest deterrent at this point.

As for The Freedom of the Hills, I'm in the process of reading it now and I’m in total agreement, it is Very educational.

Cirrus-

I will definitely look around for some good clubs. When it comes to climbing, the older men have an abundance of knowledge, and I will take it where I can get it.

Thanks for the awesome advice.

CarpeyBiggs · Joined: 18 Mar 2007 Posts: 1672 Location: Fairbanks, AK

Cirrus2000 wrote: Consider looking around for a local mountaineering club, too. Here in Vancouver, we have the BC Mountaineering Club, and the Alpine Club of Canada. They organize trips from valley rambles to regular gym and outdoor cragging, ice climbs and full on mountaineering expeditions. Surely there's one of those nearby for you.
Reminds me of my one and only trip to do some easy peakbagging in the Adamants of BC a few years ago. I met this girl I kinda liked, and she invited me to come along with her and a few friends, whom I didn't know. Of course, who would pass up that offer? Anyways, the plan was hatched by another group, and I was just along for the ride. We were planning to backpack in to one of these Alpine Huts the AC runs for 4 or 5 days. I think it was about a ten mile hike maybe, with what seemed like a hell of a lot of elevation gain. Took us every bit of the day to get to the hut (or cabin, really.) I swear my back felt like it was a hundred pounds.

Upon climbing the last ridge, we see the hut, and there are a handful of people looking over the railing watching us stumble the last few steps up to the hut. They are all drinking their beers, eating respectable food, and just generally enjoying themselves, and doing a mild amount of taunting watching the struggle unfold out on the ridge. And why not, we probably looked like complete idiots to them...

So when I finally get to the hut, I am wondering, how in the hell did these guys get the energy to pack BEER all the way up this thing? These guys are two and three times my age, and look like they just waltzed up here. And now they are taunting us? WTF?

Come to find out, it's easier to get to the huts when you ride a friggin' helicopter in. These hot shots had all their gear flown in, and we were humpin' it up this ridge I affectionately called Satan's Spine. The guys were basically jerks. Apparently, the big time guys in the club don't actually believe in hiking in. They also politely told us to stay off the same mountains they were on. That was cool. Took a few days, but eventually they gave us a little respect, and offered us a beer. Too bad I don't drink. They ended up being better than I thought, and we had some good company. I just think they were mad that they had to share the hut with us.

So, moral of the story, I guess Kev is right. Senior citizens, although slow and dangerous behind the wheel, can still serve a purpose. If you are a member of their club, you might get to catch a helicopter ride. :lol8:

(all tongue in cheek, of course.)

Iceaxe · Joined: 07 Mar 2005 Posts: 7287 Location: Utahahaha

Age and guile will overcome youth and enthusiasm every time. :five:

climbinghalfdome · Joined: 13 Dec 2005 Posts: 63 Location: Kanab UTAH

Mountaineering = steeper backpacking, rarely needs a rope, mostly just scrambling and map and compass work. Hope you like sore legs and back.
Sport Rock Climbing = face climbing, ropes and training on how to use them are a must. Endless gear and magazine collecting usually follow. Remember its all about the numbers. Hope you like scrapes and rock rash.
Traditional Rock Climbing = A boat load of gear and how to use it. Save time and have your partner slam your hands in the door a few times. Often results in loss of teeth, bladder control, and touch with reality. Hope you like adult diapers.
Bouldering = vertical, partnerless, wrestling. No gear other than old mattrice, shoes, and 5 gallon bucket of chalk needed. Endurance not needed due to inability to commit to anything for more than 10 minutes. Hope you like making craters, because every fall's a grounder.
Aid climbing = enough gear to fill a Storage unit. Involves sleeping on ledges 100's of feet off the ground, peeing into bottles, and other wise checking out of society. Hope you don't like showering or soap. (That only happens during a rain storms.)
Ice Climbing = Reasonable amount of gear and endless cycle of warming body parts with other body parts. Often folks who got board with rock craft looking for more ways to impress chicks. Usually involves missing toes and teeth. Hope you like digital pain. (Pain in your digits)
Deep Water Soloing = Blond/Red neck cliff diving. It’s all about the height of the splash upon reentry. No ropes, on gear, just H2O and swimming suit jammed where you need a nut tool to remove it. Hope you didn't want kids.
NOTE; Female climbers are a highly elusive species, mostly nocturnal, and hunted to extinction during the 1990's. They can be highly territorial and display aggressive behavior. Use extreme caution when approaching as they are prone to charge and never show them your teeth. Avoid attempts to subdue them as it will only lead to loss of gear, money and sanity.
I started my addiction in a rock gym in 1995 and have participated in all these forms of climbing for several seasons. I'm what you would call an "all a rounder" which means I suck at any one discipline and there for have to compensate by sucking at them all. Why do we do this? I know I had a reason when I started and I'm sure it was a good one. Maybe our ability to defy gravity is a direct relation to the dichotomy of good verses evil and man in his fallen state trying to cope with his concern for his immortal soul. Maybe it’s just because we look for pain in unusual places. Maybe we are looking for deeper meaning as to why we live life the way we do.
Kevin
I'm heading into Zion this Friday to search for big ICE. See other thread.

accadacca · Joined: 02 Dec 2004 Posts: 6778 Location: The Interwebs

Very nice rundown climbinghalfdome. :2thumbs: :haha:

brian · Joined: 01 Dec 2007 Posts: 9 Location: st. george

climbinghalfdome could not have been more right.
yeah freedom of the hills is a great book for anyone interested in outdoor activities, especialy the climbing sorts.
the problem I have ran into is that there are really not that many "great" mountaineering peaks in Utah to work on. Lots of fun stuff to practice around with, but nothing to serious.

Mountaineering can require quite a bit of knowledge in the Ice and Trad depo. If you don't do either of these yet I would suggest getting a good working knowledge of both. It will not only help you, but whoever you may go with the first couple of times.

Also, Zion's big wall and other Utah multi-pitch climbing can be (in my opinion) equally rewarding. Try some of these, theyll get you to the tops of a few peaks and give you your moneys worth.

if you head down to st. george look me up.